Gael vorwerk



' (No Model.)

, O. VORWERK.

WOVENSKIRT WAISTBAND. No. 883,842. 7 Patented May 29, 1888. F|c.1 FIGQ. FIGS.

lUNrrn VOR\VERK, OF

WOVEN SKIRT SAME PLACE.

-WAISTBAND.

SPECIFICATION forming part of.Letters Patent No. 383,842, dated May 29,1888.

Application tiled October 25, 1887. Serial No. 253,300. (No specimens.) Patented in Germany October 1-2, 1870, No. 9,733, and in England May 12, 1850, No.1,938.

.To all whom it may cancer-n.-

Be it known that I, CARI. VoRwER'K, a subject of the Emperor of Germany, residing at Bar-men, in the Kingdom of Prussia, Empire 5 of Germany, have invented certain Improvements in Woven Skirt-Waistbands, (for which the firm of Vorwerk 8t Sohn, of which I was then senior partner, obtained a patent in Germany, No. 9,733, dated October 12, 1879, and

[0 in Great Britain, No. 1,938, dated May 12, 1880, as a communication from me to Edward K. Dutton,) of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates more particularly to Is the waistbands with which such articles of dress as skirts or petticoa-ts are provided. Previously to this invention the said waist bands have been cut out of ordinary woven material to the required curved form. Ac-

cording to thepresent invention the web from which waistbands are cut is woven in such a manner as that one selvage is longer than the other, so that it hasa curved form, and each waistband is woven with its lining connected in weaving by one edge with the outer material,

and also at one or more points in the width of the material, the space between the united selvages and the first line of intermediate connection serving for a running tape,when such is.required. The weaving is effected in a ribbon-loom, or in a similar or suitable loom. Waistbands made from the improved material are stronger, neater, and more durable than ordinary bands, and are produced with an economy of material. In the weaving of the improved material conieally-formed takingup rollers are employed. In the arrangement adopted when carrying the invention into of feet three conical rollers are used-namely,

two outer rollers and an intermediate roller of smaller diameter; but the taking up may be effected by using two conical rollers.

In order that the invention may be fully understood, I have attached hereunto a sheet of drawings, to which reference will be made .ereinafter.

in the accompanying sheet of drawings, Figures and 2'indicate the form in which the improved waistbands are produced, and Fig.

5c, 3 represents such a band in position upon the wearer. Fig. 4.- is an elevation from the inside; and Fig. 5 an end view, partly in section, of the taking-up apparatus having three conical rollers employed in the weaving of the waistbands. Fig. 6 is an elevation of an apparatus in which two conical rollers are employed. Fig. 7 is a view of the bearings for the rollers shown in Fig. 6, and. Fig. 8 is a view of the bearings of the rollers shown in Fig. 4.

The waistband is woven with two sets of warps, one set being composed of yarns suitable to form the face of the band and the other set being suitable to form a lining-cloth.

In Fig. 2, which is a sectional view of the band, a represents the outer cloth, and b the lining-cloth. In the weaving certain of the picks are woven into both cloths, so as to connect them together, as seen at and the two cloths are also firmly woven together at one selvage. A running tape can be drawn into the space between the connected selvages and the line of connection or into the other indicated space, or into any other space formed in the same manner. Such a tape is repre sented by c in Fig. 1. The waistband might, however, be secured to the person by a buckle or by buttons or attached ends. Owing to the curved form of the band, it sits well upon the waist of the wearer, and as the weft-threads are radials of the curve they lie in the direction of the strain when the band is in use, and are therefore better capable of sustaining the weight of the skirt without alteration of form in the band.

In Figs 4 and 5, d, e, and fare three conically-shaped rollers having axles which are mounted in a suitably formed bracket, 9, which somewhatmore quickly than the upper roller, xoQ

d, so as to put a certain strain upon the web as it passes through the apparatus, and by this means the intermediate roller, 6, is drawn by the web into contact with the two other rollers.

At the beginning of the operation a weight or spring, such as at 10, Fig. 8, may be employed to press theroller e inward; but after the web has been sufliciently advanced to pass over all the rollers such weight or spring may be dispensed with. The taking-up rollers receive motion from a shaft, is, which may be the ordinary shaft which actuates the taking-up motion in a loom constructed to weave a number of narrow webssuch, for example, as a ribbon-loom. Upon the said shaft is fixed a spur-wheel, l', which gears with a spur-wheel, m, which is fixed upon the axle of the roller cl. These wheels by preference are made of such a bevel form as will suit the inclination of the axle of the roller with respect to the axis of the said shaft. Upon the said shaft is is also fixed a second bevel-wheel n, which gears with a wheel, 0, which is fixed upon the axle of the rollerf, these wheels being beveled to suit the inclinacion of the axes of the said rollers. The shaft is is actuated by any ordinary or suitable means to impart the reqnisite takingup movements to the rollers d andf. The last-named rollers are or may be covered with sand or emery, or be otherwise roughened; but the intermediate roller may be smooth. The woven material passes between the rollers in the direction indicated by the dotted line 12, Fig. 5, being nipped between the taking-up rollers and the intermediate roller, whereby a regular takingup action is insured. It will be readily understood that owing to the conical formation of the rollers the cloth is taken up to an increasing extent from one selvage to the other, whereby the web is produced in a curved form, as indicated in Fig. 1. To enable the cloth to be so taken up, it is necessary to let off the warp in differing degrees. Theoretically each warp end should be separately let off from a bobbin; but an approximate result-is obtained by dividing the warp into eight different portions,

or into any other suitable number of portions, each portion being wound on a separate bobbin or beam.

Fig. 6 is a view, similar to Fig. 4, of a taking-up motion, wherein .two conical rollers, q r, are used, instead of the three rollers hereinbefore described. The roller q is driven from the shaft is from the spur-wheel Z, which gears with the spur-wheel m on the axle of the roller q. At the opposite end of the axle of the roller q is a spur-wheel, s, which gears with another similar wheel, t, on the axle of the roller 1*. The two rollers therefore are geared to revolve-together, and by making the roller a slightly larger than the roller q, or by making the gear-wheel t slightly smaller than the Wheel 8, the roller 7 can be rotated with a greater circumferential speed than the roller q, so as to draw the web forward and keep it stretched upon the roller g. In order to main tain the requisite nipping-pressure between the rollers, the roller (1 is carried in adjustable bearings a in the bracket 9, as seen at Fig. 7, which can be pressed down by the screws 1), so as to press the rollers closely together. The surface of one or of both of the rollers may be roughened, so as to increase the frictional contact.

I claim as my invention- 1. The herein-described curved waistband, consisting of an outer web and an innerlining secured to each other, and each having one selvage longer than the other, and its wefts extending across the band radially.

2. The hereindescribed curved waistband, consisting of an outer web and an inner lining secured to each other at one edge, and by binding-picks within theedge, each web having one selvage longer than the other and its wefts running across the band radially.

In testimony whereofI have signed my name to this specification in the presence oftwo subscribing witnesses.

CARL VORWERK.

lVitnesses:

ERNST TH tiNGE-N, GEO. Koon. 

